Twenty-twenty-three, I could whinge about it but I’m not going to. I think it’s been alright. I’ve had a few holidays, made a few quid doing what I love and had some really exceptional times. For me it’s a year that’s been defined by the most memorable food and drink moments being spent around people you really love. From Omar eating Tayer & Elementary out of 43 second oysters in less than twenty minutes, to Nathan’s slightly worrying obsession with A La Mexicana tacos, those ridiculous wine club evenings, Sophie eating crab everywhere from the North East coast to San Sebastián and Mayfair, and the time Russell and I were so tipsy we walked around the Arts Club like two pissed Pac-Man trying to locate the loos, I’ve benefitted from condensing my company from just about everyone to people I actually like. Try it. It really works. So much so that even when the food has been bad it’s been (mostly) enjoyable. But it wouldn’t be the end of the year without trawling through my phone and highlighting the best dishes, so here goes.
10. Smoke + Ash. Pear, walnut, Gorgonzola pizza.
In the short time that Smoke + Ash have been open they’ve already set their stalls out for pizza which is amongst the cities best. The crowning moment for them was this insanely good autumnal pizza special showcasing the best in the seasons ingredients. Perhaps a testament to its popularity is it’s now on the full time menu. Just thinking about it has made me want one.
9. Pine. Pork Jowl and broth.
A masterclass in technique, this highlight of springs dinner at Pine featured a pork jowl so beautifully fatty and oinky it could have been at Ynyshir, bobbing in a syrupy broth straight out of L’Emclume. It had everything. I personally found the meal at Pine to be a little hit and miss, but there is zero doubts that Cal Byerley and the team here are on to something big.
8. Alex Dilling at Cafe Royal. Terrine of Iberico pork, foie gras, and black pudding.
Booked just days before they were awarded a second Michelin star as part of Sophie’s birthday, we had no idea just how good this meal would be or how hungover we’d be eating it. Technically impeccable, it has three future stars written all over it. This terrine was three perfect squares of meatiness, lifted with aromatic pepper and served with a black truffle croissant. Yes you did just read those last three words correct.
7. Purnell’s. ‘10 10 10’
In 2008 a fresh faced Glynn Purnell appeared on Great British Menu. His star was already in ascendency when his dessert – a burnt English cream, with strawberries, honeycomb, and tarragon – garnered maximum points from the judges. I’ve said it already, but I’d totally forgotten just how great it is. It eats like a dream with a very subtle use of salt. Fifteen years old and still as relevant as it originally was.
6. Opheem. Bengali fish curry.
Opheem. Where do we start. A restaurant on a relentless pursuit for a second star which only seems like a matter of time. Just the three visits this year, with this course up there with their best ever work. Think the Indian bouillabaisse; a spiced fish soup with poached cod. The best bit is at the bottom where the head meat is a spiced tangle of outrageousness.
5. Grace and Savour. Chicken pasta with Berkswell sauce.
I didn’t write Mays meal up at Grace and Savour. I actually did, but it was crap and didn’t do the cooking justice. The lunch was superb and the cooking here is so meticulous and balanced. Our party of four universally agreed that this solitary raviolo of chicken in a sauce of Berkswell cheese was the standout. It’s a must go restaurant.
4. Asador 44. Beef shin rice.
I think about this most days. Rice cooked in beef stock and smoked fat, with a big ol’ lump of beef on top. What makes it is the socarrat; a crispy base of rice at the base that requires perseverance and a hardy spoon to chisel out.
3. Smoke at Hampton Manor. Scallop in jamon butter.
I’ve eaten a lot of great scallop dishes this year but I’ve come to the conclusion that this is the best. A full-on affair, the jamon butter and maitake mushrooms make the scallop taste almost meaty, whilst the roe powder tugs it gently back towards the sea. If I could choose one restaurant to eat in every week, it would be Smoke.
2. Alex Dilling at Cafe Royal. Hunters chicken.
It’s Dilling again. He nearly had a third too with the crab and leek dish, if truth be told. Total perfection on this chicken dish which I’m told takes four days to make. Chicken breast, layer of mushrooms, mousse layer with chicken and bacon, finished with a glazed jus, contoured like a toe spacer. Add the most luxurious mash and a salad of asparagus and Comte and what you have is a dish that would be number one on any other year. I’ve never eaten anything so slowly, never wanting it to end.
1. Upstairs by Tom Shepherd. Desperate Dan pie.
When Tom Shepherd cooked this on Great British Menu old Poppa Carlo sent me a message with his crippling arthritic fingers to say he wanted to eat it. Fast forward 9 months and I’m driving him a slice over to eat because Tom has cooked it for an episode of the podcast. It’s ridiculous. The shortest pastry filled with shredded cheek in a reduction so beefy it single-handily defeated the 1981 Aussie cricket team. Under it sits layers of spuds and lyonnaise onions that act as a sponge for the good stuff. Look, I’m sorry you won’t ever get to eat it but it really is the best thing I’ve had all year. I’m also secretly hoping to use this as leverage in getting Tom to supply eight of them for the main course at my wedding. Please Tom. Pretty please.
It’s not over yet. In a first I’ve agreed to settle petrol money owed to Sophie for driving me around by stating her own top ten. She thinks her list is better than mine, but then again she also thinks that the toxic Love Actually is the best Christmas movie. Take it as you will.
10. The Table. Langoustine scampi with rhubarb hot sauce.
9. Speedboat Bar. Winter melon and eggplant curry.
8. Max’s Sandwich Shop. Et Tu, Brute? Murdering The Caesar
7. Smoke at Hampton Manor. Chicken liver parfait, pickled walnut, sherry jelly
6. Smoking Goat. Nahm D’tok smoked aubergine and egg
5. Bar Nestor. Tortilla.
4. Opheem. Bengali fish curry.
3. Yikouchi. Half and half; fish fragrant aubergine & Turkish pepper dry fry chicken gaifan
2. Upstairs by Tom Shepherd. Scallop with Jerusalem artichoke and caviar.
1. Alex Dilling at Hotel Cafe Royal. Crab stuffed leeks with white crab and vichyssoise
Listen to Tom, Aktar, Glynn, Brad Carter and loads of other top secret and utterly amazing guests on season two of the podcast in January
- 2023,
- Aktar Islam,
- Alex dilling,
- Asador,
- Beef,
- Birmingham,
- cardiff,
- cheap eats,
- Fine Dining,
- London,
- meat and one veg,
- Michelin,
- newcastle,
- one star,
- opheem,
- Pasta,
- Pie,
- pine,
- Pizza,
- podcast,
- sandwich,
- smoke,
- Thai,
- Tom shepherd,
- top ten,
- Two Star,
