Today it’s a whistle-stop visit at Cau, a new South American style steakhouse in Brindley Place. Inside the monochrome interior is broken up by lucid green wallpaper that echoes grass, whilst clouds dangle from the high ceiling. Its an odd space, seemingly kitsch and intent on dividing opinion. With little time to wonder around the menu, we plunge straight in to the beef for mains. The cow, or cau as they would have it, would prove to be very good, maybe even surprisingly so, full of deep bovine flavour from an animal properly sauced and hung. The sirloin appeared central to the plate with no accompaniments – a ballsy move that lives or dies on the quality and cooking of the meat. It was cooked rare as requested, and correctly rested so that the meat juices had remained where they should be and not on the plate. The seasoning was exact and the flavour of the cow good. It was hard not to be impressed and impossible not to love. On the side came chips the size of a fat mans thumb, which were crisp on the outside and fluffy in the middle. At fifteen quid it was a serious bargain.
A burger also impressed. Stacked high, the patty came pink as requested, with an onion ring, American cheese and piquant ketchup. What made it was the addition of sticky bits of braised short rib, that reinforced the bovine flavour and added a subtle fattiness. It wasn’t easy to eat, but then the best things never are. More of those fat chips and another fifteen quid left us replete and pleased with the afternoons work.
We never took desserts, though the website shows some interesting options. Perhaps next time, eh, when I can also explore a seemingly well crafted list of Malbecs. Cau impressed for having a product that far exceeds the mid price range it promotes. And they deliver via those efficient scooter boys over at Deliveroo, which makes that steak / burger dinner at home all the more luxurious. I normally insist on several dishes before I can give a score,though in this instance I can confidently say that if you’re looking for a lump of Cau, you’ve come to the right place.
8/10
