In the ever-changing landscape of hospitality, it is key to remember that not all restaurants were built in these times, in this era of quick fixes and virality. Some were lucky enough to be born twenty, thirty, even forty years ago, when life was more of a slow burn, and the importance was on building foundations and spreading word via an ancient form of communication known as verbally. Restaurants – and I’ll apologise for this lazy analogy ahead of time – are a lot like musicians. Some are overnight success stories that build lengthy careers (Madonna), others are overnight success stories that fade quickly into obscurity (Limp Bizkit). You’ve got your Coldplays that started off as indie heroes before hitting the mainstream, and your Springsteen’s who feel like they have always been around but take a blast on the radio to appreciate just how good they are. I went to Cucina Rustica for lunch yesterday. They are very much a Springsteen, which is a good thing, because I’m very much a Springsteen fan.
I hadn’t eaten here in ten years, maybe because I associated the restaurant with a previous relationship, or maybe because the very nature of this blog is to chase the new openings. I’m not sure they need me there; on a cold Wednesday lunch the place is throbbing with the sound of cutlery hitting plates and the rising pitch of opened wine. The dim October sunlight strained through the gaps in the shutters, casting natural light over a wooden table bearing a little more than a few fresh flowers and some salt and pepper pots. The menu is a relatable list of Italian classics, whilst the wine list is a joy for anyone who loves Italian wine. We ordered a great bottle of Chianti classico and settle down. Focaccia laden with sundried tomatoes and Tuscan bread arrive with a pot of olives and some high quality oil and balsamic. The focaccia shines nearly as much as the sense of hospitality.
We share a starter of burrata with ‘nduja bruschetta and a little salad. I didn’t realise it then, but it typifies my overall impression of the restaurant. The presentation is simple – I guess deliberately so – with the star being the quality of the produce. The burrata is wonderful; loose and velvety, clearly incredibly well sourced, as was the fiery ‘nduja. It seems weird to comment on a notionary salad, yet here I am, telling you that the tiny detail of properly dressed leaves with vinaigrette is done just as well as anywhere. It’s a small thing, but when you’re dealing with rich ingredients like burrata and ‘nduja, that acidity matters.
The mains involve a porchetta from the specials that has good meat and an absolutely stellar marsala sauce. The meat is probably cut a tad too thick, but this is solid, classical Italian cooking. It’s overshadowed by the lasagna, a masterclass in lasagna, the second best lasagna I have eaten. More layers than Tenet, a bechamel loaded with mace, excellent ragu, sat on a base of tomato sauce that is there to protect the bottom layer of pasta but also works to add richness. The portion is huge. We leave not a scrap.
There is very traditional tiramisu for dessert, along with a very nice affogato and a bill for £108, almost half of which went on the wine. No service charge in this day and age, which I find astonishing given the complimentary bread, the sides with the porchetta, and the start-to-finish excellent service. Cucina Rustica isn’t rewriting the rules of Italian cooking, nor does it need to; It’s the classics, the Greatest Hits Volume 1, played out in a room that’s comfortable with arguably one of the best wine lists in the city. And as I get older and less concerned with being cool, I have a tremendous amount of time for that.
8/10
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