I’m in Worcester because Maneki Ramen is coming to Birmingham. And that’s not to say that I wouldn’t come to Worcester to eat at Maneki Ramen, or anywhere else, under my own steam, but it’s the facts. Maneki Ramen, a place I’ve long followed, launched a Crowdfunder for a Birmingham site, there was a press trip that to Worcester that I didn’t go to because I was pissed at Tom & Charlotte Shepherds brilliant spirits brand launch (Twofold Spirits, if you’re wondering), they passed the Crowdfunder target, and then I got on a heavily delayed train to Worcester in that weird bit between Christmas and New Year because the eyes of the city will soon be on it. It was the Friday, I think.
Sophie knows the location. She grew up ten miles away from here. It’s under the arches, three minutes from the station, next to Burger Shop and by the trendy beer place she thinks I’ll hate. We take our seats at the bar which were the last remaining when we booked yesterday. Outside, in what best can be described as a gazebo with tables, it is quickly filling with people readily prepared for the weather and a dinner outside. Say what you want, but using chopsticks whilst wearing skiing gloves is a commitment in itself.
We have highballs, really good whisky highballs, then rice crackers that are speckled with seaweed salt. Sophie has smoked tofu and wild garlic gyoza that has a whiff of Paxo stuffing about it, whilst I go for chicken karage. The chicken is excellent; hard fried, brittle and greaseless, I can’t recall eating much better than this. The wine arrives a very drinkable natural red at a very affordable £34.
So what of the ramen? It’s really good. They are going to clean up in the Jewellery Quarter, which is handy because parts of it really need a spruce. Look past the high salt content and what you have is a broth that talks of patience and layering of flavours. A slick, heady umami bomb that is the base for everything else to work off. The noodles are great, the egg a fraction under. Like I say, it’s a very good. The katsu curry uses more of the karage with a katsu sauce, which, you guessed it, is very good. If it stays at £14 it will destroy wagamama on Deliveroo, and that is not a recommendation for either of them. Sometimes we all get sad. Sometimes we all need a hug from a katsu.
The bill is £107, but we overdid it a bit, and you can expect about £35 a head when they arrive in Birmingham or £35 if you are reading this in Worcester now. Should you be in Worcester you’ll likely know just how good they are, and just how detailed their approach is to the cuisine. I’m pleased they’ve hit the target, pleased they are coming to Birmingham. I expect they’ll have something of a cult following in no time at all. It is time to start practicing those chopstick skills in your skiing gloves.
8/10
