Okay, The Malaya Classic, take two. Take one was up for about twenty-six hours, I’m quite appalled about it. Long story short, I turned up extremely drunk to meet a man who does incredibly nice things for me, made a bit of a tit of myself, didn’t remember the meal and used the word count to say nasty things about a nasty person. I was told not to post it by someone who cares more about my reputation than I do, but of course I got drunk again and pressed publish. I’m an idiot. Sorry Soo Fon. Sorry Zi. Sorry Sophie. I’ll try to correct that here.
Good news: I remember this one. Didn’t touch a drop until the mains arrived. I really liked it. Ordered everything from the Malaysian menu because the sign over the door suggested I should. The platter for starters where the beef rendang spring rolls star. They are naughty little things. Excellent chicken satay, really excellent vegetable fritters that I only get a bite of because Sophie has taken a liking to them, and pandan chicken, baked in the leaf so that the meat imparts a gentle sweetness. The best bits are the corners where the chicken meat has caught and caramelised to a hardened crust. You could order this and leave very content.
Three mains, though we only really eat two of them. We were warned that the ayam laksa is fishy to the point that it’s only on the Chinese menu at one of their other restaurants. We ignore the warnings, and yes, you’ve guessed it, it’s way too fishy for this pathetic white boy and his even whiter partner. That said if you’re adventurous and into that kind of thing, go for it, the world is your oyster, which is probably one of the many bits of the ocean thrown into it.
The other two are great. Hainanese chicken is a classic interpretation of one of the great joys of life. Soft and yielding meat, rice cooked in the poaching liquer, a chilli dip and a ginger/spring onion one, both brilliantly fiery in their own rights. Honey and marmite chicken is apparently very popular in Malaysia. It’s easy to see why. Sticky, moreish, full of umami and character. Not the slightest bit fishy.
With this we drink a great Albariño that’s too cheap at £35, served by a team who really care about wine service. And a shoutout to the lad who wrote a million Kula Lumpar recommendations on his note pad. Remembered all of it, loved most of it. Maybe turning up sober for diner is the way forward.
8/10
